WW2 Vertex Dirty Dozen WWW Army Issue Wristwatch

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The Watch

W.W.W referred to as Wrist Watch Waterproof.  
In WW2, under increasing pressure from the Germans, the MoD needed to kit out their Troops with a Wristwatch that would stand the harsh realities of War.
The MoD put out specifications for this Wristwatch, that many Swiss Companies answered, the MoD whittled this down to 12 Companies hence the term "Dirty Dozen". These needed to be accurate, reliable and durable, which in watchmaking terms meant they had to be regulated to chronometer standards, and also be waterproof and shockproof.

The watches also had to have a black dial, Arabic numerals, luminous hour and minute hands, luminous hour markers, a railroad minute track, a shatterproof crystal, and a stainless-steel case. Powering them would be 15-jewel movements, measuring between 11.75 and 13 lignes.


 The 12 companies chosen were: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex.


There were only 15,000 Vertex Watches issued to troops during the Second World War, who knows how many survive. This Particular piece is a very early Issue, it is the 259th Vertex Issued.


View this Soldier in a video: here



The Specs

Age: c.1945.
Reference: W.W.W
Movement: Manual wind with Sub Seconds.
Calibre: 59
Timekeeping: Very good.
Service History: Full Service, April 2022.
Dial: Original MoD Spec Vertex Dial.
Case: Chrome Plated with Stainless Steel Caseback.
Measurements: without/with Crown: 35.8mm/39.1mm End to End: 47.1mm
Bezel: Solid.
Water Resistant?: No.
Hands: Original.
Crystal: Correct Acrylic crystal.
Crown: Correct Original unsigned Crown.
Strap/Bracelet: New 18mm Khaki NATO Style strap with Gun metal fixtures.
Lug Width: 18mm

Getting Acquainted

Bits that stand out:
-One of only 15,000 issued, early issue 259/15000.
- Hard to find in good order. Especially the Chrome Case.
- Fully serviced Movement.
-Crisp Military markings to the back.

Nitty Gritty:
-Some age related discolouration to the Original Pencil Hands and the Sub Seconds Register.

Overall the Vertex is in very nice Vintage condition.
The Dial is in nice condition with some age related discolouration to the Sub Second register.
Chrome Case is in very good nick, the Vertex case is amongst the most vulnerable for wear to the plate, however the wear on this case is very very good.
Caseback markings are very nice.
Original Crown.
Crystal in good shape.
Hands are in lovely shape, with some age related discolouration.